Torpo Stave Church in summer light, framed by birch branches, with the white 1880 parish church standing beside it in Hallingdal

Photo: Marion Solheim

Stave Church Hallingdal · Buskerud

Torpo Stave Church

A unique baldachin and the legend of Margaretha

Written by Marion Solheim May 2026

The only surviving stave church in Hallingdal, Torpo Stave Church stands today as one of Norway’s oldest and best-preserved medieval buildings. Beneath the high church ceiling, we encounter rare and remarkable paintings on a richly decorated baldachin. And carved runes in the church furnishings proclaim: “Torolf made this church.”

Location Torpo, Ål municipality, Buskerud

Date Second half of the 12th century

Style Borgund style

The painted baldachin inside Torpo Stave Church showing a rosy-cheeked Christ enthroned among the apostles under a curved barrel vault — The baldachin’s curved vault — luminous medieval imagery beneath the church ceiling. Photo: The Soul Driver / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Stories Beneath the Baldachin

Under the curved barrel vault, vivid medieval imagery unfolds. The colours are clear and luminous. A rosy-cheeked and serene Christ is surrounded by the apostles, while much of the painted decoration is devoted to the legend of Saint Margaretha.

According to the legend, Margaretha was persecuted and tortured by the spurned pagan suitor Olybrius, a prefect serving Emperor Diocletian. Several brutal execution attempts failed, as she was miraculously saved time and again, until she was finally beheaded. Margaretha of Antioch is said to have died in the year 305.

The story concludes with her soul ascending to heaven in the form of a dove, while Olybrius’ distorted soul is carried off to hell by a small demon. A dramatic medieval reminder of divine justice.

Medieval baldachin painting showing Saint Margaretha being scourged by a tormentor while a scribe records and Olybrius watches from a tower — Two scenes from the Margaretha legend painted on the baldachin—the torments and the beheading. Photos: Holger Uwe Schmitt & Kjartan Hauglid / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

Medieval baldachin painting of the beheading of Saint Margaretha — a chainmail-clad executioner raises the blade, the prefect Olybrius watches from a battlement — Two scenes from the Margaretha legend painted on the baldachin—the torments and the beheading. Photos: Holger Uwe Schmitt & Kjartan Hauglid / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

The richly carved west doorway of Torpo Stave Church, framed by intricate dragon-style ribbon work and topped with interlaced beasts

Close-up of a dragon-style carving on Torpo Stave Church: interlaced beasts and ribbon ornament cut deep into oak

The west doorway and a detail of its interlaced beasts. Photos: Marion Solheim

Powerful Dragon Style

There is no doubt about its beauty. Intricate carvings in the classic dragon style—the artistic tradition mastered by the Vikings—adorn the structure. The doorway alone is so richly detailed that one can stand there for a long time, discovering new elements in the wood all the time.

The Builders Who “Tagged” with Runes

The craftsmen behind Norway’s stave churches were highly skilled professionals. Some chose to leave their mark. In Torpo, a runic inscription was discovered on a wall:

Master

Torolf

made this church

Apprentices

Åsgrim · Håkon · Erling · Pål · Eindride · Sjaunde · Torolf

Carved by

Tore

And

Olav

The inscription found on a wall inside Torpo Stave Church.

Torolf was likely the master builder, the others his apprentices. He may also have led the construction of the now-lost Ål stave church, where a similar inscription was found. Clearly an expert, he may have travelled between commissions, working alongside local carpenters. And he was a man that liked to leave his mark.

Saved from Demolition for 280 Kroner

Stave churches once stood throughout Norway. Most were dismantled or destroyed. Torpo stave church survived. Though in a somewhat reduced form.

Facts

Stave Churches in Norway — What Happened?

~1,000 stave churches built in Norway during the Middle Ages (c. 1150–1350)

28 surviving stave churches today

Why were so many destroyed?

They became too small. Growing populations in the 18th and 19th centuries required larger churches.
New church law (1851). Churches were required to seat a fixed percentage of the local population.
Changing architectural ideals. Stave churches were considered dark and outdated. Larger timber or stone churches were preferred.
Reuse of materials. Timber was valuable and often reused.

Why did any survive?

In the mid-19th century, rising national awareness sparked efforts to preserve Norway’s medieval heritage. The Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments, Fortidsminneforeningen (founded in 1844), played a decisive role in protecting several stave churches.

Today, the remaining stave churches are regarded as unique architectural treasures and powerful symbols of Norway’s cultural heritage.

In 1880, the chancel was demolished. The rest of the church was also going to be demolished, but the Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments purchased the nave to preserve it.

During the great church sale of 1723, Torpo stave church passed into private ownership. In 1880, the chancel was demolished, and the rest of the church was destined to follow.

Close-up of an iron lock plate and key-hole shield on the doorway of Torpo Stave Church, set against deep dragon-style carvings — Iron lock and dragon-carved jamb—medieval craftsmanship that survived the 1880 demolition. Photo: Marion Solheim

The Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments, Fortidsminneforeningen, strongly protested what they saw as vandalism. The municipality instead decided to construct a new church. While the new church building was underway in the summer of 1880, the stave church choir was demolished and materials removed for reuse.

That autumn, the Association was allowed to purchase the stave church for 280 kroner, on the condition that it would be maintained on site.

Today, the two churches still stand only metres apart. They look good together and are at the same time a striking visual contrast between two architectural eras in Norway separated by hundreds of years.

Torpo Stave Church and the 1880 white parish church standing side by side in summer, separated by only metres of churchyard — Side by side—two architectural eras, separated by hundreds of years. Photo: Holger Uwe Schmitt / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Is a Bishop Buried Here?

The wide, ancient floor planks creak gently underfoot. In the centre of the nave, the outline of a full-length human figure is carved into the floor. It appears mysterious. An unconfirmed theory suggests it marks a grave. Most likely that of an old bishop.

A possible bishop’s grave, unique paintings, runic inscriptions, and masterful woodcarving: Torpo Stave Church continues to offer its visitors memories for life.

A baldachin painted with the legend of Margaretha, runes left by a master builder, a church saved for 280 kroner. Torpo holds eight centuries in its timbers.