While there are eight different embroidered bunads from the Sunnmøre region, the Ørskog version is the most widely used. It is also known as the Märtha bunad, named after Crown Princess Märtha, who received one as a wedding gift in 1929.
The women’s bunads of Sunnmøre come in many variations, yet they share common features and a shared history. A key similarity is that they are all based on elements of traditional clothing. The Ørskog bunad, in particular, was designed using an old apron from the Gjære farm in Ørskog, dating back to around 1850. Since no original bodice was found, the floral motifs from the apron were used instead.
The Birth of the Sunnmøre Bunads
By the early 1900s, interest in bunads had already reached Sunnmøre. For the "Mother of the Bunads," Hulda Garborg, it was a joy to see young people engaged in their local bunad traditions. She did not believe it was needed to be super strict and stick to just one or a few patterns. In 1917, Hulda Garborg presented both a photograph of an embroidered bunad from Sunnmøre and a color image of an embroidery pattern.
The people of Sunnmøre took on the challenge and picked up the embroidery needle! But… At the time, both yarn and fabric quality varied greatly, and not everyone were skilled in sewing. As a result, numerous bunads were made with not-so-great craftsmanship and garish colors.
When Klara Semb arrived in Sunnmøre a few years later to teach folk dancing, she quickly noticed this decline. She believed the Sunnmøre bunad was deteriorating and that action was needed. Klara wasn’t one to stay silent.
She encouraged the documentation of truly old garments. Both Sunnmøre Husflidslag and Sunnmøre Ungdomslag were up for the challenge. In 1926, their efforts were displayed in an exhibition in Sykkylven. Klara Semb returned with wise advice and a helping hand, leading to a revision of the Sunnmøre bunad.
In 1927, the so-called Ørskog bunad was introduced. In the following years, many of the other embroidered bunads also went into production.
A Close Look, Piece by Piece
Livet (the bodice) fastens at the front with hidden hooks. It is made in black or dark blue and edged with red trim.
Stakken (the skirt) comes in two variations. Either it is solid-colored or with a decorative band along the hem. Both styles feature fine pleating around the waist, with a smooth, unpleated panel in the front.
There are two different embroidery patterns for the Ørskog bunad. One is based on the embroidery from the old apron from the Gjære farm in Ørskog. The other is inspired by an apron from around 1950, believed to originate from Sjøholt. Both versions feature embroidery on the back and front panels of the bodice.
The shirt comes in several variations, depending on the specific Sunnmøre bunad. The choice of shirt is optional, but they are all made of white linen and embroidered with traditional whitework. The embroidery decorates the collar, front panel, shoulders, and cuffs, though the patterns and techniques vary.
FACTS: WHITEWORK
Whitework embroidery is a technique where white thread is stitched onto white fabric, creating an elegant design through texture and openwork rather than color contrast. This method often includes techniques such as satin stitch, eyelets, pulled thread work, drawn thread work, and cutwork to add dimension and intricacy.
The belt is sewn onto the apron and embroidered to match the rest of the bunad. Some also choose to wear a silver belt.
Søljene (the silver accessories) are most commonly in white or gold-plated silver, but oxidized silver can also be used. The silver designs are inspired by historical pieces from Sunnmøre. The beautifully crafted set for the Ørskog bunad includes a halsknapp (neck button), brystsølje (chest brooch), mansjettknapper (cufflinks), a veskelås (purse clasp) for the embroidered detachable pocket, and for many, earrings and a ring.
With the harsh coastal winds of Sunnmøre, staying warm is essential. A kep (cape) has been designed for the bunad. It is made of black or dark blue wool, featuring fine pleating at the neckline, a stand-up collar, and silver hook fastenings at the front.
Not many people wear head coverings with their bunad anymore, but let’s take a closer look at them. There are two types of traditional headwear: lue (cap) and skaut (scarf).
The cap is a pullue; it hqas a large, flat, plate-shaped crown that rests against the back of the head. It is gathered into a forehead band that also sits far back on the head and is tied under the chin with ribbons. The lue is inspired by traditional caps worn in Sunnmøre during the second half of the 19th century. Historically, there was a stronger tradition of wearing a lue than a skaut in this region. Today, many associate lue only with children's bunads. But when the bunads were first introduced, it was intended as headwear for all.
Then we have the skaut. It is made of white linen with a narrow lace trim. All variations of the skaut are tied on with black silk binding ribbons, featuring simple edge embroidery in yellow, green, and red. The ribbon is placed across the forehead, crossed at the nape of the neck, and tied in a bow at the front.
To distinguish between unmarried and married women, a multi-colored embroidered pattern was designed for the jenteskaut (young women’s scarf), while the koneskaut (married women’s scarf) features black embroidery. The jenteskaut also comes in two variations. One with counted thread embroidery matching the koneskaut pattern, and another with freehand drawn embroidery. So many things to remember!
What About the Gentlemen of Sunnmøre?
The men of Sunnmøre don’t have a specific bunad for the Ørskog variation, but of course, they have a bunad! The classic men’s bunad, worn across Sunnmøre, is quite elegant.
The black men’s bunad was developed in the early 1900s and originates from Stranda. It consists of breeches with a flap front and a jacket made of black vadmel wool, while the vest is crafted from specially dyed red wool fabric with a linen back.
This men's bunad shares many common features with other bunads from the same period. The combination of a not-so-long jacket and knee-length breeches in black wool, a red vest, and white stockings is, for many, the very symbol of traditional Norwegian men’s bunads. It's a real postcard bunad, one might say.
The Kids Version
Little girls can have their own mini-Sunnmøre bunad, which is almost a replica of the adult women's version. The girls' bunad is made of black or blue wool flannel, with embroidery in the Ørskog pattern. The same applies to the boys, who wear mini versions of the Sunnmøre men's bunad.
Wedding Bells and Bunad!
If you're getting married in Sunnmøre, you can wear the bridal crown and chest cloth with all the Sunnmøre bunads, including the Ørskogbunad.
At the Sunnmøre Museum, there are several bridal crowns that were once available for loan. However, over time, they became too worn from years of use, making it no longer safe to lend them out. As a result, Norsk Flid Husfliden in Ålesund had a replica made of one of the old bridal crowns. This can be rented along with the chest cloth, so there are still beautiful brides wearing these crowns in full Sunnmøre style to this day. It’s simply stunning!
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